Indigo In Marrakech - Part 2
As I step out into the alleyway, it's 10am. And even though I'm in shade, the heat is already oppressive. I'm glad I left my light jacket behind; I would have been carrying it all day.
The alleyway is a little less intimidating in the light of day. That said, were this a John Wayne western, I would be certain that this long, straight, high-sided brick canyon was an ambush waiting to happen.

And I'm half right. Within twenty yards, I am accosted by two young lads, who are maybe ten or eleven years old. I presume they are either beggars or opportunists, and don't make the mistake of stopping; that indicates interest, kindness, weakness, or that I am a sucker.
I don't wish any of those messages to be conveyed.
They mistake me for a German. This happens a lot. I am 6'5", of imposing build, and have short hair. I am told I look quite serious, which may also be a factor. I shake my head and say
English as I stride away down the alleyway. They are not impressed, and ask me (in French) if I speak French. I nod and the older boy starts chattering away to me. I get about half of it. It seems he thinks I am lost, and he wants to show me around. I decline politely and keep walking, fairly sure I'm heading the right way to reach to find the main city square.
His salesmanship is admirable; he remains cheery and again offers to help, and then says something I don't quite catch which suggests I really don't want to be going
that way. I am now less sure my heading is correct. I slow slightly, and ask him how much his assistance will cost? He looks offended, and says he will do it for
nothing.
I stop and eye him suspiciously, and he repeats this. He swears it is true, and rattles off an oath that involves either his deity or his mother; he's talking too quickly to tell. He smiles angelically.
He also waves his friend away without losing eye contact with me. His friend runs off in search of another sucker.
I ask him if I am going the right way for the main square and he nods. Walking ahead of me, he points and talks a lot. We're buzzed by a couple of mopeds, which unsettles me a little. I suddenly realise he's asking me questions which are sliding past me. He mentions Manchester United and David Beckham. I chuckle at his bizarre pronunciation of
Oon-ee-ted, which he takes to be a good sign.

Of course, in a hundred yards, I know where I am from the night before: straight on to the main road and probably the
Djemaa el Fna city square; turn right to enter the
Soukh, the covered market. The guide book encouraged me to visit the Soukh, and even as I stand there with a view of coloured silks, spices and metal trinkets, I'm tempted to head straight in.
But by reputation it is a hive of generic alleyways bustling with stalls, shops and beggars. I think I'd like to be a bit more
outdoors until I find my feet.
I check with my guide if the square is indeed straight on. He nods, and I thank him for his time. I say I no longer need a guide. He starts to protest, but quickly senses I am serious; he asks me for some money. I say no, and remind him he wanted no money for his services. He shakes his head, and says he is sick, and needs an operation.
I am not certain he uses the French for
voluntary donation as he rapidly expounds his position, but I'll bet it's in there somewhere.
Well, I admit to myself that I
did accept his help (
sucker) and I was always likely to give him
something for his trouble (
sucker). But sucker or not, I don't believe a word of the operation story. Still. I pull a small-ish
Dirham note from my pocket. He looks at it with disdain and his pitch goes up a gear. He finds a few words of English from somewhere and - pointing at his face - explains more about his operation.
It is my eyes. My eyes!
I start to withdraw the note and he quickly takes it from me. His mission accomplished, the young pirate salutes, says he will see me again, and runs off.
Unbelievable. A hundred yards into my journey and I've already been relieved of some money.
I feel pretty stupid.
As I wander towards the main square, I'm determined to not let it happen again.
Djemaa el Fna (Place of the Vanished Mosque) is a striking destination, a wide open area surrounded by low buildings. It is the main market for the city, but it is not quite the Arabian bazaar I had expected it to be. There's quite a few vehicles and bicycles, and many people are dressed in a western style.

Still, there are signs of history, even if it is perhaps only for us tourists. A snake charmer weaves his spell with a large cobra, and there are a number of jugglers and acrobats. I slow to take a photo of the snake charmer, and immediately get accosted by five brightly-dressed musicians. They dance around me, smiling and singing, pop a traditional Moroccan hat on my head, and make me the centre of attention for a couple of minutes. Quite a few locals and tourists stop to take in the show, which undeniably is a lot of fun. I don't feel threatened by it, even when one relieves me of my camera and takes some photos of me
* with the remainder of his troupe.

[
* I'm carrying a lot of weight in this photo. Two years later, I am 70-pounds lighter. Do not show it to children or police horses; they may be startled. ]
My camera is returned, and they ask me for money.
Resigned to a second light loss, I pull my wallet. A quick scan identifies a note that I think will be appropriate for the five of them. The man I assume to be the leader whips the note deftly from my grasp, offers up thanks to heaven and does a runner. The four others look to me, indicating they'll see none of it. They move a little closer too, not in an aggressive way, but one that says they expect to be paid.
I sigh and hand a few more notes out. What the hell, the notes aren't worth much (
sucker) and they did give me a good show (
sucker).
Singing and cheering, they melt away into the crowd.
I look at my wallet and think for a moment. I check the remaining notes. I check again. Dammit, I gave them each around ten pounds sterling!
No wonder they were singing.
Only smaller denomination notes remain; less than half of my holiday cash is left. Good grief, I've only been out of the hotel for ten minutes! And I'm half tempted to go back there before the rest vanishes!
But the beautiful centre-piece mosque for the city awaits my pleasure, and it is in walking distance. I head to a café to settle my nerves, check my map, and have a lemonade. This seems to help.
But I still feel like a total dick.
As I wander away from Djemaa el Fna, I am determined to not let it happen again.
Continued in Part 3 - Red Walls And A Purple Haze
Indigo
This blog entry is protected by copyright © Indigo Roth, 2009